The rise of universal design and the departure from medical garments:
There is a myriad of misconceptions and miseducation surrounding disabled people and much of it stems from negative media portrayals and antiquated stereotypes. Disability inclusion is not niche. It should not come as a surprise that the disabled community share the same desire to look good and refuse to be limited to purely ‘functional’ wear. Far too often, inclusive design does not get the fanfare it deserves. Yet body shapes, human needs and individual attitudes differ from the mainstream images and ideals we are prescribed to.
Back in February London Fashion Week (LFW) platformed disability in an unprecedented way by featuring Unhidden, an adaptive wear brand, as part of the British Fashion Council’s listings.
The highly anticipated show featured 30 models with disabilities and visible differences. Founder Victoria Jenkins hoped this breakthrough would give further momentum as well as “encourage other designers and show that there is real value and real beauty in being inclusive.”
Watch the Unhidden fashion show.
Victoria, who trained as a garment technologist, spent 14 years in the fashion industry at British high-street brands, including All Saints and Jack Wills. She founded Unhidden in 2017 after noticing a gap in the market for stylish, adaptive clothing.
During the London Fashion Week show in February 2023, Unhidden debuted 20 new designs that catered to the diverse needs of the disabled community. The collection offered both standing and seated versions of trousers, accounting for comfortability for wheelchair users and style. Removing excess material at the front of the hip and back of the knee ensures greater comfort and helps prevent pressure sores.
Moreover, various tops were also modelled in standing and seated versions – some of which had discrete arm openings for easy access for those undergoing chemotherapy, radiotherapy and those with diabetes or a long-term Peripherally Inserted Canal Catheter (PICC) line. The dresses had openings for stoma bags or feeding tubes, eliminating the need to remove clothing. Pockets were strategically placed for easy accessibility, and snap fastenings replaced buttons, making dressing easier for individuals with limb differences or reduced dexterity. Victoria’s collection also catered to those with specific sensory needs and included soft jerseys.
Read more about the Unhidden fashion show.
Victoria was also able to take part in a panel discussion hosted by the Valuable 500, which included a line-up of panellists from the fashion industry moderated by Bella Webb, Sustainability Editor, Vogue Business. The panel featured Caroline Casey, Founder of the Valuable 500, Caroline Rush, CEO, British Fashion Council, Geoffrey Williams, VP Global Head of Diversity & Inclusion, Burberry, Pascale Montaner, Global Head of Brand Communications & Marketing, Kurt Geiger.
It discussed the experiences of people with disabilities, opportunities to make the industry more inclusive and the global market. Watch to be inspired by those making change happen through their businesses.
What’s next?
Unhidden is collaborating with Paralympic swimmer, Will Perry, creating a tailored range for men with short stature, which will be centred in universal design. The most recent post on Unhidden’s blog suggests that there are plenty more announcements pending. Victoria said:
We’re already looking forward to the day where we can dedicate even more time and resources to influencing policy, opening more doors into fashion as an industry for disabled and neurodiverse people, and bringing adaptive fashion into the mainstream.
This year has also seen Victoria featured on a variety of TV projects, with an appearance on BBC’s Dragons Den, highlighting the plight designers face when starting out. To offer fair wages and good quality fabrics, and implement an ethical business model, the cost of production remains high. The Dragons were unconvinced and decided to opt out of investing, with Dragon legend Peter Jones suggesting Victoria enter more of a consultancy area in fashion to become the voice and agency on adaptive wear for large companies.
Her most recent feature has been as a designer on Channel 4’s Unique Boutique – the show about inclusive fashionistas and designers daring to do what the high street doesn’t: create fabulously bespoke beautiful outfits for everybody in their custom-built shop. Victoria brought a lot of joy to many people who came into the Unique Boutique.
Victoria Jenkins and Unhidden are making waves and helping to bring adaptive fashion and representation to the agenda. This year so far, has seen Victoria participate in various interviews, TV projects and recently being listed in British Vogue’s “The Vogue 25 – Top 25 influential people in Britain defining and redefining Britain”. Amongst the list were Kylie Minogue, Tori Tsui, Raye and Her Royal Highness, Queen Camilla.
We can be sure Victoria and Unhidden will continue the momentum of highlighting and making change for the better.
Final thoughts
It is safe to say fashion should be down to an individual’s expression – gender, race, disability, sexuality, faith, and age shouldn’t determine how we create visual and functional styles that empower and enable. With such global influence, fashion houses, and more broadly the business of fashion, have an opportunity and responsibility to shift the narrative by making people with disabilities visible.
This long-awaited better representation of the disability community is slowly but surely eroding the historical stigmas surrounding disabled people. Much of the misunderstandings and ‘mistakes’ could be avoided by asking the disability community what they need or how we can get better together.
By involving the community, their ideas, talent and tenacity, supporting, developing and investing in design, society will accelerate the move beyond optics and tokenism.
